Budget option for prestige class plaster

Plastering work using modern mixtures and store-bought beacons is, frankly speaking, a costly task. Yes, the same “Rotband” dries quickly, and gives a surface such that it is not necessary to putty (especially under wallpaper). But the price for this pleasure is appropriate. Today we will talk about saving money - how to plaster a wall at minimal cost.

Necessary tool

To work you will need:

• A concrete mixer, especially if you are planning large-scale work and not sketching out a couple of square meters. You can get by with a trough and a shovel or knead on a piece of oilcloth, but this is less effective.
• Trowel, spatula, trowel.
• Axe, hacksaw, hammer and nails.
• A skein of polypropylene cord or fishing line.
• Buckets and basin for solution.
• Level and several rules of varying lengths.
• Reinforcement 12-14 mm, cut to the height of the surface to be plastered. The number of rods depends on the area of ​​the wall. You can also use disposable store beacons, but this is not very economical.

To save money, you can make the solution yourself rather than buying ready-made dry mixtures. The difference in price will be huge. Now let’s figure out exactly how we will save on the mixture.

What to make plaster mortar from

I will describe the mixture that I used myself when plastering my rooms. Therefore, do not be surprised and do not ask questions like “why so much cement?”After ten years, the plaster feels great and has not fallen off anywhere, despite the average six-centimeter build-up. In some places it was up to twelve centimeters thick - this is how the walls were built in the post-war years. So, the recipe for one batch is as follows:

• cement M400 - 1 part;
• river sand - 3 parts;
• tyrsa - 4 parts.

In many sources I found proportions 1:2:6, but, in my opinion, such plaster is not very durable. But, undoubtedly, it’s cheap, because a thousand rubles costs a penny.

For those who don’t quite know what tyrsa is, it is dust from shell rock or limestone, a by-product during mining and production. It is used as a cheap substitute for sea and river sand.

It would be nice to either buy sand and tyrsa already sifted or do it yourself pass through a fine sieve. This is not necessary for the first rough sketches, but during the final grouting you will more than once remember what I am talking about now.

Preparatory stage

They begin by driving a nail into the wall at three levels on the left and right sides of the surface to be plastered. If that doesn’t work, grab a hammer drill, drill the holes and hammer in plastic dowels. We screw screws into them. All this fuss is needed in order to pull the polypropylene cord or fishing line at three levels of height. And not just tighten them, but make them level relative to the vertical along the entire length. We will place beacons along these three cords. To avoid running around with a level, use a plumb line - tie a string with a weight (say, a large nut) to one of the top nails and use it to level the position of the fishing lines.

Installation of beacons

Some people use a solution for fixation, the recipe for which I gave above. But it will be easier to stick it on the wall alabaster “cake”, and beacons are already attached to it. In this case, you need to make sure that the beacons are clearly level along the fishing line. They are positioned so that the rule overlaps three beacons. Those that are closer to the edge of the wall or doorway are placed with an indentation of about 10 centimeters.

If we talk about ease of use, it is easier to work with store beacons than with fittings. But they have a number of disadvantages:

• significantly less durable than reinforcement - they can bend and deform;
• disposable - after removing them from the wall, there is nothing left to do but throw them away.

But there are also certain pros. Firstly, a magazine beacon is lighter than a strip of reinforcement of the same length. Secondly, a beacon with proper coating can be “buried” in the wall, no matter what anyone says about rust. And thirdly, if you didn’t steal the fittings from the nearest construction site, then the lighthouse is definitely cheaper in terms of money.

Rough sketch

If there is already a plaster on the wall, then I will immediately draw your attention to the fact that it is better not to put new plaster on the old plaster. Notches with an ax or grinder are, of course, not bad - maybe it will hold on. But Often a fungus settles in old plaster, not healthy at all. Don't be lazy - strip it down to the stone.

Regardless of whether you oil the solution with a shovel or a concrete mixer, add the ingredients little by little and alternately - cement, sand, sand. Then again cement, and so on. When kneading by hand, thoroughly mix everything dry. Then gradually add water, continuing to mix, and achieve the thickness of store-bought sour cream. First, a little water is poured into the concrete mixer, and then the dry mixtures are added.

Before sketching the entire surface of the wall, thoroughly sprinkled with water - beat down the dust, and let’s say that the same shell rock takes away moisture very well. If you don't spill some water, the plaster may fall off.

There may be several rough sketches. There is no need to immediately make a thick (more than 2 centimeters) layer - it may not stay on the wall. They sketch down up, along the spaces between the beacons, called shoulder straps.

After the solution has stood for 20-30 minutes, using the rule, moving it from the bottom up, remove the excess from the wall. Water is added to them and brought to the same consistency, then safely reused.

If you decide to remove the beacon, wait about a day, then mine it. After this, we move on to the final stage of the operation.

Grout

This procedure is started when the main layer has already set and is not going to fall off. For these purposes we use cement mortar with sifted sand and tyrsa. Using a foam trowel, we fill in the remaining holes, cracks and marks from the beacons on the wall. We go through the entire perimeter with a trowel, then let it all sit for a couple of days.

After this, the wall is ready to be treated with starting putty. To clear your conscience, you can walk over it with a block of sandpaper with P80-P100 grain and prime it for better adhesion of the putty.