Connecting a chandelier with a remote control

Chandeliers that are controlled by remote control are not only fashionable, but also practical. This allows you to use the device without interrupting your work or idleness. In common parlance, all these devices were aptly dubbed “lazy ones.” Connecting a chandelier with a remote control is not a difficult task, but it is done in compliance with safety measures and the correct sequence of actions.

Chandelier with remote control

Device chandeliers

To understand how the connection is made, let's look at the design of a diode chandelier:

  • Driver block, which supplies power to a line of LED light bulbs. Its connection is usually made with two wires of the same color. Those that go to diodes are multi-colored, for example black and white. The LEDs are connected in series: if one fails, the entire line fails.
  • Microblock, where the receiver and signal processing controller are installed. This block (switch) is the main part of the entire device. It is through this that the mains power is connected. It functions as a switch. Manufacturers designate a signal switching microunit as “Wireless Switch" or "Control Switch". A connection diagram should be pasted on one of its sides. Wires, usually in blue and brown braiding, are suitable for the input to the controller. These are the colors generally accepted in many countries to designate the AC circuit from the panel. The white wire on the other side of the block is the antenna for the remote control.
  • Transformer, auxiliary wiring, and, in fact, light bulbs. Everything listed in the list (except for the light bulbs) is neatly hidden by the body of the chandelier.
Switch

Typically, a chandelier is controlled from a remote control using radio waves with a range 27.1 MHz.

Connection steps

Connecting a chandelier in a new building takes a little longer than in “secondary" A lived-in apartment probably has a ceiling mount, and the wiring is already ready. But the essence of the process does not change much.

Testing

Using an indicator screwdriver, we find where the zero is and where the phase is. The probe is triggered when touching a phase. If you touch the “zero” with it, the light on it does not light up.

Through the switch we conduct exclusively phase. If you do the opposite, the circuit will work, but it is possible electric shock when touching the body of the chandelier (say, when replacing light bulbs), even in the off position.

Connection

Scheme

An approximate algorithm for connecting is as follows:

  • After we have decided on the zeros and phases, remove power from the panel and hang it out warning sign on it, so that some “clever guy” doesn’t turn on the switch at the most crucial moment.
  • “Zero” is connected directly from the junction box to the chandelier, bypassing the switch.
  • Depending on the number of phases coming from the switch, connect them to the chandelier terminals. If there is one phase coming from the switch, well, we will be content with the fact that we cannot turn on one horn, say, out of three. They will all work together in one phase.
  • If There are several wires coming from the switch and there is more than one horn on the chandelier - Great. Pressing different switch keys will turn on different areas.The only caveat is that you may not like the layout of the keys in relation to the order in which things light up. Then you'll have to play around and move them around.
  • We make sure that the connected chandelier is not going to fall, and go to serve power supply on the shield. We try to turn on the light first using the switch, then remote control (by the way, check - does it have a battery?). If everything is fine, turn off the switch and attach the chandelier as expected. We remove the “Do not turn on” sign and turn on the power.
Chandelier - rear

The process of connecting a diode chandelier with a remote control is, in principle, not complicated, but it requires attention. This work cannot be rushed: incorrect connection of the system can have negative consequences. It is quite possible that someone will get an electric shock or the wiring will burn out as a result. It is better to double-check the connection before applying power, even if you are one hundred percent sure that it is correct.

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