DIY heat gun

Often, heat guns sold in stores are either too weak, or consume a lot of energy, or are simply expensive. If you have a small set of spare parts, tools and ingenuity, you can assemble the heater yourself.

What parts will it be assembled from?

Before starting assembly, you need to clearly understand the principle of operation of the device.

1. There is some kind of heating element.
2. With the help of a fan, air is distributed throughout the room.
3. The thermostat helps set the heating temperature.
4. The temperature sensor protects the device from overheating.

Therefore, to make any heat gun we will need:

• The body is made of non-flammable material, preferably metal,
• Electric fan,
• Heater (heating element, gas burner or divider),
• Electric cable,
• For gas heat guns you need a cylinder and a hose with a valve,
• Stand or support for the case,
• Controllers and temperature sensors.

Tools

For work we will need:

• Screwdrivers;
• Riveter or welding;
• Soldering iron;
• Tester;
• Hands growing from the right place.

If the latter does not apply to you, then it is better to buy a ready-made heat gun in a store.

Calculations

Before you start assembling a heat gun, you need to decide on several important aspects.

IMPORTANT! Remember the fire safety rules, take precautions when working with a welding machine and electric current.

The first thing you need to calculate is the power of the heat gun that will be required for heating. On average, 1 kilowatt is enough for 10 square meters. But it varies in different regions and under different conditions. Here are a few values ​​that can serve as support:

• In the south of Russia, for a room of 10 meters, where the ceilings are not too high, 0.5-0.8 kilowatt is enough.
• In the northern regions, the same area requires 1.2-1.5 kilowatts.
• Depending on the material of the walls, cracks and other heat losses, the power of the heat gun has to be increased twice or more.

The second important factor is the condition of the electrical wiring. This is especially true for electric heat guns. It is quite possible that weak wiring will not withstand a powerful heating element, knock out plugs or cause a short circuit. In such cases, you need to run a separate high-power cable from the meter to the outlet where the device will be plugged in.

Making a heat gun - instructions

Next, we’ll look at several popular models of heat guns and DIY methods.

Gas heat gun

A gas heat gun is an effective and economical way to heat large areas. There are 2 main types: stationary, connected to a gas pipeline, and mobile, for which cylinders are used. Mobile options are used by builders when working in winter; they are used in greenhouses and garages.

According to the heating method, they are distinguished:

• Direct heating devices, when the gas from the burner directly enters the fan, and then into the room. The efficiency of such a heat gun is about 100%, although it is not the healthiest.
• Indirect heating devices. Here the gas is heated by a special heat exchanger, and the combustion products go into the chimney, just like in a gas boiler. The efficiency of such a heat gun is lower, but it can be used in residential premises without fear.

To create a simple heat gun of the first type with your own hands you will need:

• An old gas or welding cylinder or thick-walled pipe.
• Fan.
• Gas nozzle with divider.

The bottom of the cylinder is cut off.

A burner and ignition device are installed inside.

A fan is attached to the outlet.

Gas hose and electrical cable are supplied.

The supports are welded or screwed on so that the heat gun does not lie on the floor.

After testing, the device is ready for use.

Electric heat gun

The design of an electric gun is not very different from a gas gun, only heating elements are installed instead of a burner.

Basic assembly aspects:

1. The length of the pipe for the housing is taken from the calculation of the length of the heaters and the distance of at least 20 cm between them and the fan.
2. The wiring of heating elements and fans must be autonomous, with mandatory grounding.
3. A thermostat is required to increase/decrease heating.
4. Ideally, protection against overheating is needed.

When assembling and operating an electric heat gun, it is important to follow safety rules when working with electric current.

Heat gun on diesel fuel and diesel fuel

This is the most dangerous type of heat gun, so assembly requires increased care and attention.

The housing will require a sealed tank, which will be divided into a heat exchanger and a combustion chamber. The ideal option would be an old wood-burning boiler or stove.

Using a pipe, burning diesel fuel enters the chamber from the burner and passes through the heat exchanger. Combustion products are removed into the hood.

The fan forces cold air into the housing, creating a flow of heated air from the nozzle.

Wood fired heat gun

A wood-burning heat gun is similar to a diesel heat gun, but is somewhat safer and smells significantly less. In the combustion chamber, instead of a pipe and a burner, a door for firewood, an ash pan and grate bars are installed. A wood-burning gun is heated similarly to a wood-burning boiler, the only difference is the presence of a fan.

Important details, safety rules

Homemade electric guns are much more dangerous than factory ones, because during their assembly it is not always possible to take into account all the nuances. The basic safety rules when heating with such devices are:

1. Never leave a running appliance unattended, even if it is equipped with residual current devices and appears completely safe.
2. Do not leave diesel or gas heat guns turned on overnight in a residential building; do not risk the lives of people and the safety of property.
3. For heat guns using wood, diesel fuel or gas, be sure to equip a good hood and carefully monitor its serviceability, promptly clean it from soot and combustion products.
4. Fuel tanks and gas cylinders should not be located close to a working gun to avoid fire.
5. An open flame must be covered with a protective screen so that embers or splashes of burning diesel fuel do not enter the room.