How to create a UV sterilizer for an aquarium with your own hands?

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If your artificial pond is clogged, green, filled with algae and bacteria, then you need a water sterilizer. There are several types among them, but ultraviolet models are in greatest demand - they are easy to replace, they are effective, cheap and do not negatively affect the reservoir environment.

Don't want to buy them? Have you decided to make it yourself cheaper and better? Then read on - how to make a UV sterilizer for an aquarium with your own hands.

Necessary elements and preparation. To make a homemade UV water sterilizer you will need:

• Ultraviolet lamp (15 Watt, T8 base)
• Sewer pipe (50 cm, diameter 40 mm)
• Plugs for sewer pipes (2 pieces, according to the pipe diameter)
• Sewer pipe connector (1 piece, according to pipe diameter)
• Drip Irrigation Fittings
• Electronic ballast (electronic ballast) or ballast (ballast), power must be greater than the lamp

You will also need wings, a pencil, a ruler, silicone, hot glue, and a drill/soldering iron. Prepare the components of the future sterilizer and prepare the work surface, heat up the glue gun. Making a DIY aquarium UV sterilizer will take 20 minutes or less. The cost of such a lamp, without electronic ballasts, will be 600-700 rubles. But it can be done cheaper.

Manufacturing process of ultraviolet water sterilizer. To begin, place the UV lamp on the sewer pipe, measure the length of the lamp and make marks 3-5 centimeters shorter on each end.This is necessary so that the bases of the UV lamp are not washed with water and stick out.

Melt/drill holes: one in the pipe, the second in the sewer pipe connector, to match the diameter of the fittings. Step back 2-3 centimeters from the “skirts” of the pipe and connector, drill/melt blind holes in them using a drill/soldering iron. Next you need to make holes in the plugs. These holes must be larger in diameter - the bases of the ultraviolet lamp must pass through them.

You can make a slight mistake with the dimensions of the hole for the plinths, but with holes of a smaller diameter (for fittings) you need to be extremely careful - the fittings should not fall out of them. It is better to make them smaller and, if necessary, enlarge them during assembly. If you mess up the dimensions of the holes for the fittings, then as a last resort you can tighten them - there is a thread under the fitting nut. But such a connection will be less airtight.

Check the accuracy of the work. Pass the UV lamp through the pipe, insert it into the holes of the plugs, and pull the plugs towards the pipe. Next, insert the fittings into the small holes. If necessary, trim fittings or increase hole diameter.

If all sizes fit, everything fits and does not wobble, then you can start sealing. Lubricate the bases with silicone sealant. This is necessary so that water does not get on the lamp contacts, because if it gets in, a short circuit will occur. If you wish, you can install a small motor that will move the water faster.

Next you will need electronic ballasts or ballasts. It is recommended to use electronic ballasts because of its compactness, reliability, lack of additional elements, and the electronic ballasts are also low noise. Connect the wires of your device to the lamp. To connect, make loops from the copper ends of the wires and drape them over the antennae of the UV lamp.Then crimp them with heat shrink and additionally seal them with super- or hot-melt glue so that the wires do not tear out. This operation must be performed four times (for each antenna of the lamp). If you want to fork out more, you can buy a cartridge and do without heat shrink with glue.

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Electronic ballasts also need to be sealed, and efficiently. The device will be in water along with the main part of the sterilizer, so if even the slightest amount of moisture gets in, what will happen? That's right, short circuit.

Additionally, you can install a filter on one of the fittings. In this case, the water in the aquarium will be crystal clear. Check the quality of the seal and test your device.

Operating principle of a UV sterilizer. Water is forced through the fitting of the device and enters a separate section. The included ultraviolet lamp sterilizes the water - eliminates most bacteria, algae spores, microbes, viruses - and releases a portion of water through the second fitting. Water circulates throughout the aquarium, a new portion is launched, and the cycle repeats.

If you additionally installed a filter, then before leaving the second fitting the liquid passes through it and is further cleaned.

By installing a motor, you can speed up the circulation of water in the aquarium and the speed of its cleaning.

Manufacturing features. The sockets are not tightly connected to the glass tube of the lamp; water may get into this place. If this happens, the lamp will burn out and cause a short circuit, so the sealing must be good. Electronic ballasts/ballasts must be equal in power or more powerful than the lamp (preferably more powerful). For example, a 36 Watt electronic ballast and a 15 Watt lamp.A 36-watt electronic ballast will be able to work with two 18-watt lamps connected in series. In practice, 57-watt will not have enough power to power three lamps in series. Why do you need a sterilizer for water in an aquarium? Typically, an aquarium contains fish and algae. As a result of their vital activity, various substances enter the water - bacteria, viruses, algae spores, etc. As a result, the water becomes cloudier, thicker, greener, and accumulations of spores and other microorganisms settle in it. You can constantly change the water, or you can avoid this thanks to an aquarium water sterilizer. Such devices drive a portion of water into a separate container, purify it using their own method (depending on the model and type) and release it back. Some models also have filters for water purification.